Patio Door Repair in Markham

We lift the panel out to reach the rollers, since almost nothing useful can be judged with the door in place. Flat spots, seized bearings and cracked housings all cause the same lifting and dragging. New rollers go in matched to your door make, then the height is adjusted at both ends so the panel hangs square in the frame.

A bent or worn aluminium track chews new rollers within months. Light burring is dressed flat; a rolled-over lip is straightened; a track worn through gets a stainless steel cap set over it so the rollers run on fresh metal. The channel is cleared of grit, because dirt in the track is what flattens rollers in the first place.

If the door has to be pressed sideways to lock, the mortise lock and the keeper are out of line, usually because the panel has dropped on worn rollers. We reset the roller height first, then align or replace the keeper and fit a new mortise lock or handle set where the hook or the spring has failed.

The fin seal in the jamb and the interlock where the two panels meet are what stop drafts and blowing rain. Both harden and flatten with age. We replace the pile weatherstripping in the correct pile height and fit a new interlock seal, then check the sill drainage holes so water leaves the track instead of pooling in it.

Fog between the panes means the sealed unit has failed and the glass itself is done, though the door and frame are usually fine. We measure the unit, order tempered glass to match the thickness and coating, and swap it in. Cracked or shattered panels are boarded the same visit and glazed once the unit arrives.

Screen doors get new rollers, re-tensioned mesh or a rebuilt frame rather than being written off. If the whole patio door is beyond repair, we can quote a replacement unit and secure the opening in the meantime so you are not sleeping behind a broken door while the new one is being made.